You don't have to go far for a starry sky in Montenegro: a mountain a few kilometres from town lights is enough. Durmitor, with Žabljak at 1,456 metres and the Sedlo pass at 1,907 metres, is the easiest starting point, while Sinjajevina and the valleys of Prokletije are quieter still. Near Nikšić there are also guided stargazing nights.
Where to watch the Milky Way and meteor showers in Montenegro: Žabljak and Sedlo on Durmitor, the Sinjajevina plateau, Grebaje in Prokletije, Lovćen and guided nights near Nikšić.
Mountains far from the lights
Montenegro is small, but much of its north is mountains and high plateaus with few settlements. Drive a few kilometres out of town, switch off the headlights, and the mountain sky is dark; on a clear, moonless night the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye. You don't need any equipment: a warm jacket, a clear night and a little patience while your eyes adjust to the dark are enough.
Durmitor: Žabljak and Sedlo
The easiest base is Žabljak, at 1,456 metres in Durmitor National Park. Black Lake, at 1,418 metres, is only three kilometres away, with the sky opening above the forest and peaks. Better still is to head away from the town lights onto the Durmitor Ring, an 84-kilometre loop road. On it lies Sedlo, at 1,907 metres the highest road pass in Montenegro, with a wide open sky above the pastures. Nights here are cold even in summer, so bring warm clothes.
Did you know?
The longest nights of the year are not in summer but around 21 December: almost 15 hours then pass between sunset and sunrise, but dress well and check the mountain roads before you go.
Sinjajevina and Prokletije
East of Durmitor stretches Sinjajevina, a vast plateau averaging over 1,600 metres, with pastures, sinkholes and summer shepherds' huts (katuni). It is one of the least visited mountains in the country, and almost nothing blocks the sky above it, neither forest nor peaks. In the far east are the Prokletije, with peaks above 2,500 metres. The glacial Grebaje valley near Gusinje makes a good base: here the night landscape is framed by the rock walls of Karanfili and Volušnica.
Lovćen and guided nights near Nikšić
Lovćen National Park, between 939 and 1,749 metres, is the closest to the coast, so it is handy if you are staying by the sea. Expect the glow of the coastal towns towards the sea, while the sky inland is darker. If you'd like a guide, near Nikšić there are two places licensed by the Visit Dark Skies programme: FitCamp Montenegro in the village of Presjeka and Tourist Centre Vučje on the mountain of the same name. Both run group stargazing with an audio tour and night photography. Check dates with them directly.
