Orthodox Christmas

The evening continues with family gatherings at home, and on the morning of 7 January the churches hold their Christmas liturgies. For a visitor, the rhythm of the two days is easy to follow — the fires and the crowds on the evening of the 6th, the services and the quiet family day on the 7th.

While the customs are kept in every town and village, the scenes are most striking in front of the major temples, where the badnjak fires and the crowds are largest. Wherever you are staying in Montenegro in early January, the nearest large church will have its own fire — and its own gathering around it.

What makes the observance memorable is that none of it is staged. This is a living tradition rather than an event produced for an audience: the fires are lit because they always have been, and visitors who come stand alongside families keeping a custom that structures the whole Montenegrin midwinter.

Badnji dan and Božić fall on 6 and 7 January every year, across Montenegro. Attending is free and open to everyone; the evening of 6 January in front of a major church is the moment to plan around.